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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 4:48 pm Post subject: D3B steering clutch | I have a 1981 D3b serial #24Y01012 the right side steering yoke on steering clutch has a lot of play in it, I have not got a manuel yet but I'm going to get one. I got this dozer 2 week's ago and would like any help on trying to fix this, the brake bands have been redone at some point. what I have done to this point is ajusted both sides (as the cat dealer said) of the brakes tighten them then backed off 2 turns, the brakes seem to work fine but the right side clutch didn't seem to release ( had to push had on brake to get to turn to right) the left side worked good. took covers off both sides of clutch area temporaly hooked up clutch valves to see if both sides worked, left side pulled ot clutch assembley, right side didn't, seems like the extra play in yoke wouldn't pull out clutch, both yokes pushed out the same to the stops. the top pin is still in the yoke is there something on the bottom of the yoke thats giving it that extra play or has something else broke. please help
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:01 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Also I've noticed that this dozer has alot of rusted out spots, is this common since it was built in Japan?
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135 Fan
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| | Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Probably worked near the ocean. I've seen some with quite a bit of rust. Look in the archives on here under D3 or 931 Cat. It's highly likely that the roller on the steering clutch valve is worn out/has a flat spot and not fully engaging. Bob/Ont is the expert on these and has helped me out numerous times with my 931B loader. My rollers are worn but the machine still turns pretty good after I adjusted the brake bands. You shouldn't have to stand on the pedal to turn. Dave
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Bob/Ont
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| | Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:08 am Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Ron, with the top off check the throw out bearings and cages in the center of the yokes. Might have a failed bearing or a cracked cage worse case. Or the last guy working on it might not have gotten the yoke end into the lower bearing. Either way you need to lift that clutch out.
Later Bob
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 6:47 am Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Bob, the yoke does woble side to side, can't see the bearing, how do I get the clutch out I haven't got a book yet. thanks Ron
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Bob/Ont
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| | Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:31 am Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | You need to unbolt the cam/bracket from the bottom of the case, take out the pins from the band and remove the linkage. Take out the release rod between the cyl and yoke. Then take out the bolts holding the drum to pinion flange and the ones holding the bevelgear flange to the clutch stub shaft. Then clutch can be lifted out. BUT FIRST, get a light and investigate the source of the looseness so you know what to fix. Compare both sides and you will find the problem. If you have oil clutches drain the oil, if you have dry clutches slack the support bolt under the brake band then readjust it when you get the clutch back in.
Later Bob
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 10:42 am Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Thank's Bob, I look into it more and get back with you. Thanks Ron
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 3:40 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Bob, got right steering clutch assembley out, inner cadge seems ok without taking clutch assembley apart,look's to me it's the throwout bearing that's bad not sure what the cluth pack is suppose to be but it measured 1&15/16 across the pack. left side brake bands look wore, so I'll probally replace it too. Is there a good place to get parts cheaper than cat, I live in central Ill.also it has a drain plug does that mean it has to have oil in it, I drained about 4 gallon of oil and water out of right side, left side had about 2 gallon of oil and water mixture. on the funny side found a 10 yen coin when cleaning out the cover plates, Thanks for all your help Ron
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Bob/Ont
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| | Posted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:50 am Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | If you have oil clutches there should be a big plug in each top cover and a 1/4 Pipe Plug in the side of the steering clutch case near the final drive fill plug. Use TDTO oil if it's a wet clutch. Clutch thickness sounds good. You need press tools to take the stub shaft out and reinstall. Might need a shop to do this(Dealer). The manual will say press to 20 ton but it's wrong. Only press the stub shaft in to 8 to 10 tons dry, no oil on splines. Tell anyone doing this for you if they go over 10 ton they owe you a new hub when yours splits. Will talk about adjustment when you get it together.
Later Bob
Later Bob
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 5:16 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Bob, Got both sides out and at shop to install throw out bearing on right side, the left side drum splines were wore, the clutch pack splines were about gone, got new hub and clutch plates for left side, the right side hub splines were wore too so I got new hub. getting both brake bands relined, anything else I need to look into, and also on ajustment, what is the correct way I've heared different way's' with all new parts I want to get it done right, also my brakes are dry ones. Thanks for all your help Ron
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Bob/Ont
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| | Posted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:53 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Okay Ron, if you have dry clutches the discs should be thick fiber ones, not thin ones with a metalic surface on each side. Also the bands should be solid the full width across not 3 thin pieces in a wrap around style. Wash out the housing and look for oil leaking in, maybe the bevel gear shaft seal or release cyls and tubes. Fix the leak before installing. I take it you have the stub shafts pushed out of the clutch hubs.
Later Bob
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Ron/D3B
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| | Posted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 5:09 pm Post subject: Re: D3B steering clutch | Bob, I have all the parts repaired, ready to put back in, the clutch plates were fiber so I would think they are dry clutches, trying to get 1 1/4 plug out on right side to tighten bolts back, bevel gear seals seem ok so I'm hoping that oil was just that the tops were not all bolted down tight, every thing seems ok whats the best way to get the new brakes in ajustment? Thanhs Ron
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